Wood is a living material: it reacts to humidity, temperature, and household chemicals. Cleaning it the wrong way can leave chalky streaks, dry the surface out, or even raise the grain. Below is a proven care routine that keeps the color rich, the carving crisp, and the finish intact for years.
1. Quick check: what finish do you have?
Before you pick up a cloth, identify the coating. At Roots & Lines, our frames are coated with paint and polyurethane on all sides. This fully seals the wood from moisture, making our mirrors safe to place even in bathrooms.
|
Finish |
How it looks |
Care notes |
|
Oil / wax |
Matte, “warm” sheen; the wood still “breathes.” |
Don’t leave water sitting; can be lightly re-waxed. |
|
Water-based lacquer |
Moderate gloss, even film. |
Tolerates a bit more moisture, but hates abrasives and ammonia. |
|
Polyurethane |
High gloss, almost plastic-like surface. |
Most durable film, but can crack if exposed to harsh cleaners. |
Tip: Not sure? Place a drop of water on a hidden spot. If the wood darkens, it’s oil/wax; if the drop stays on the surface, you’ve got lacquer or polyurethane.
2. What you’ll need
- Two soft microfibre cloths
- A soft-bristle brush or an old make-up brush
- Soapy solution: 3–4 drops of phosphate-free dish soap in 1 L of warm water
- A spray bottle (handy but optional)
- Clean warm water for rinsing
- For oiled finishes: solid beeswax or furniture oil
3. Step-by-step cleaning
- Dry dusting. Wipe along the grain with a dry microfibre cloth. Gently brush out any carved areas.
- Light degreasing. Lightly mist the cloth (not the frame!) with the soapy solution. Excess water can make the wood swell. Wipe along the grain, turning the cloth when it darkens.
- “Rinse” pass. Use the second cloth, slightly dampened with clean water, to remove any soap residue.
- Immediate drying. Buff the frame with the dry side of the cloth; no moisture should remain in carvings or joints.
- Nourish the finish (oil/wax only). Warm the beeswax slightly with a hair-dryer on low so it softens, spread a thin layer, let it sit 20 minutes, then buff to a silky sheen. For oil, apply a drop on a cotton pad, wipe, and remove any excess.
4. Common mistakes
- Ammonia-based glass cleaners. They draw oils out of the wood and cloud lacquer. Clean the glass separately, masking the frame with painter’s tape.
- Melamine sponges. Great on tile, but they leave micro-scratches on wood.
- Over-soaked cloths. Water can seep under the finish and cause blistering.
- Direct sun or a hair-dryer on high. Rapid drying at high heat cracks lacquer.
5. Preventive care
- Weekly dusting with a dry microfibre cloth.
- Deep cleaning every 2–3 months.
- Re-wax/re-oil every 6–8 months if the frame lives in a bathroom or near a heater.
- Keep moisture low. Position the mirror away from constantly wet shower zones; wood loves a stable micro-climate.
6. When to call in the pros
- Grey or black stains on the surface—this is mould; the frame needs sanding.
- Cracked lacquer or separated joints.
- You’d like to change the tone (for example, warm up the walnut)—professional refinishing required.
Bottom line: Follow this simple routine and your wooden frame will stay beautiful for decades—no chalky streaks, no dried-out patches, no scuffs. And your mirror will go on doing what it does best: reflecting the beauty of your home.